Frequently Asked Questions

Foam does not kill mold, but closed-cell foam on rim joists and basement walls keeps warm, moist indoor air away from cold surfaces, so condensation that feeds mold does not form. Any existing mold and the moisture source should be dealt with before foam goes on.

HomeGuide lists $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed nationally, about $2,000 to $2,500 for rim joists and $3,000 to $8,000 for an attic. Your price depends on the house, and the written estimate after our visit is what you pay.

Ice dams form when heat leaking into the attic melts roof snow, which refreezes at the cold eaves. Sealing the attic floor and bringing insulation to depth keeps the roof cold. Ventilation at the eaves helps too.

Muskegon County is in Climate Zone 5A. ENERGY STAR recommends R-60 for an uninsulated attic, or about R-49 added to 3 to 4 inches already there.

Closed-cell. It insulates and slows vapor on a surface that gets very cold, which prevents condensation against the wood.

Consumers Energy lists insulation rebates for attics, walls, basement walls, crawl spaces and rim joists, with amounts based on whether you buy gas, electric or both. Check their rebate page for current amounts and rules.

Closed-cell foam keeps moist air off cold surfaces, so condensation does not form there. It does not remove existing mold; that and the moisture source are handled first.

Usually 2 to 3 inches of closed-cell. The quote lists it.

Inside heated spaces like basements, yes. Cold attics and unheated buildings need surface temperatures within the product's range, so we schedule around the weather.

Usually not on a simple open attic floor. Sealing and blown-in is cheaper. Foam makes more sense for cathedral ceilings and complicated roofs.

Warm, moist basement air is reaching cold wood. Closed-cell foam seals and insulates it so that stops.

Yes. It is far easier before framing, and it keeps the finished room warmer and drier.

Usually yes, especially rooms along outside walls on the first floor.

Consumers Energy lists a rim joist rebate when all accessible rim areas are insulated. Check their page for current amounts.

Insulation helps, but air sealing matters more. Most ice dams come from warm air leaking into the attic.

Usually well over a foot and a half, depending on material. The quote lists it.

Yes, attic work is done year round, though very cold days slow some foam work.

Consumers Energy lists attic rebates tied to the final R-value. Check their page for current rules.

Yes, with dense-pack cellulose drilled from inside or outside.

An older framing style where wall studs run from the foundation to the roof, leaving open cavities between floors. We block them as we fill.

Dense-pack slows air within the walls. Windows, doors and outlets need sealing too.

Consumers Energy lists one for at least 500 square feet of above-grade wall.

Yes. Closed-cell under the steel keeps moist air off the cold metal.

Steel must be within the product's temperature range. We may need to heat the building first or schedule a milder day.

It depends on how warm you keep it. We size the thickness to your use.

We focus on walls and roof; insulated doors and weatherstripping are usually a separate purchase.

Only if it is wet, moldy, contaminated or damaged.

Usually a day for a typical attic.

Do not disturb it; have it tested first.

Often yes, once any roof or leak repair is done.